At the Angelika Film Center in Manhattan, I saw Marc by Sofia, a 2025 documentary film directed by Sofia Coppola, about the fashion designer Marc Jacobs. The film follows him as he prepares for a fashion show, and sits with Sofia, his longtime friend of over thirty years, discussing his career and influences.
The film has a bit of an insider, cool kids feel to it, as Marc and Sofia, both of the elite arts upper classes, speak with a bit of a airy sound to their voices, which can make the audience feel like a third wheel to their conversation. The film gets more interesting when Marc talks about his childhood growing up in New York City as a 70s kid, spending time with his grandmother, and being inspired by pop culture icons like Diana Ross, Liza Minnelli in Cabaret, and Bob Fosse's choreography in Sweet Charity, bringing his influences with the thick, clumped eyelashes and sequined mirrored dresses onto his models for the show, bridging between his childhood loves and his professional work as a designer and artist.
I really enjoyed the parts with Jacobs and Coppola talking about their 90s heyday in fashion and music and art, focusing on Jacobs' "grunge" collection in 1992 for Perry Ellis, and the controversy of him commodifying the grunge fashion subculture into the mainstream with supermodels like Christy Turlington dressed in flannel on the runway, and Jacobs saying how Courtney Love and Kurt Cobain hated it. Coppola going "Oh, yeah?" with her detached voice made her sound a little out of touch, since I could definitely understand, even having been a kid back then, how it would look to people who grew up in a scrappy environment and were broke seeing their clothes turned into expensive fashion for the upper classes and being annoyed.
In their 90s flashbacks, I did like that the film talked about the famed 1994 X-Girl fashion show, when Kim Gordon of Sonic Youth (who Jacobs said he was intimidated by when asked to do the fashion for one of Sonic Youth's videos) and Daisy von Furth had the X-Girl fashion line at the time, and did an outdoor show that was produced by Coppola and Spike Jonze, with models including then-club kid Chloë Sevingy at 20. It definitely felt like a moment of the time, bringing together fashion, alternative rock music, photography, and a lot of cool kid energy.
I enjoyed a lot of the music needle drops, like hearing an Elastica song over the ending credits, and hearing various Sonic Youth songs like "100%" and "Dirty Boots."
I liked watching the scenes of Jacobs with his team discussing differences in fabric when looking at swatches for clothes, and distilling down to particular "handfeels" and textures that he wanted, I was interested in the technical parts of fashion and creativity. I also liked Jacobs' metallic nail polish that he was sporting.
It was a decent movie. It felt safe because he and Coppola are longtime friends, so there was bias there, and as much as I do like pop culture and celebrity stuff, I can feel a distance from it at the same time when watching videos of celebrities interviewing each other and being in their own insular world. I also had questions about how Jacobs and his fashion contributed to the negative parts of the fashion industry, like using overly thin models or any unethical factory practices or making clothes too expensive for the general public, but given the bias, I knew that wasn't to be explored as a hit piece on him or on the industry in general. So it was nice for the parts about 90s nostalgia and the scenes where he is working on his craft with his team of fashion professionals.
No comments:
Post a Comment